We heard of a magical place called The Sanctuary, a secluded paradise of healing, meditation and reflection, with a healthy sprinkle of party on the side. We met Suzanne and Morwena in Hampi in India, Reiki healers who live and work in this place, and described it as a getaway where people go to escape the stress and strain of everyday life, only accessible by a short long-tail boat ride or an arduous off-road trip over a mountain. A recent article in the Guardian revealed that it had been the inspiration for Alex Garland’s 90’s best seller “The Beach”, a tale about a traveller finding a secret exotic paradise where backpackers lived in a Utopian community, albeit with a sinister undertone of drugs and homicide (well it wouldn’t be a good story without it). The seclusion, along with the simple, holistic pleasures offered by the Sanctuary appealed as an antidote to the commercialism of Koh Tao, and it didn’t take much to persuade our friend Roberto from London to come with us, so off we went.
As we boarded the crowded morning ferry from Kho Tao, we heard that the infamous Full Moon Party was happening that evening. We had all been there and bought the T-shirt at least a decade ago, but we had to go to Haad Rin beach, home of the party, in order to get a boat to rhe Sanctuary. The scantily clad teenagers covered in neon paint reassured us that we had made the correct decision by not participating. However, the weather was uncharacteristically stormy and by the time we arrived on Haad Rin beach the seas were so violent that even the hardy long-tail boat drivers refused to make the ten minute trip around the bay to Haad Thien, home to the Sanctuary. We had two options; stay in Haad Rin with all the kids and start drinking Sangsom buckets in anticipation for the evenings shenanigans, or pay a huge sum of money for a moody guy who hated the world to drive us across the mountainous interior of the island in his pickup truck. We are no longer 21 years old, so option two won. We piled into the open back of the truck and hung on for dear life as we were driven up and down sheer muddy dirt tracks, finally getting to our destination after some stomach churning driving.
Indulge your inner hippy
The atmosphere when we arrived in Haad Thien beach was a complete contrast to the impending booze-fest of Haad Rin. We were only two kilometres around the coast but we might have been on another planet. Haad Thien, and in particular the neighbouring cove of Haad Whynam, offers real the ‘old school’ Thailand that we craved: small scale, chilled out atmosphere and rustic beach huts. We found ourselves some huts next door to the Sanctuary itself because our budgets didn’t quite stretch to their prices. The spiritual action takes place in beautiful tea temples and yoga shalas spread among the coconut trees where every kind of alternative therapy and meditation are on offer. When the sun sets there’s live music, cinema nights and secret jungle parties.
Despite its seclusion, the Sanctuary itself is definitely established for a certain clientele. A trendy restaurant serving Amaretto sours fronts the beach, while fancy thatched AC bungalows cater to most burned out of executives. Slightly older backpackers, comfortable-off hippies and bourgeois holiday-makers mingle over skinny soya lattes, exotic cocktails and mocktails, while the excellent vegan menu would not look out of place a bijou Notting Hill café. It’s a veritable middle class alternative paradise where ‘namaste’ is the greeting of choice. For cynical Londoners such as us, everything seemed perfect – maybe too perfect.
Wisdom of the coconuts
Despite all of the spiritual nourishment on offer, our favourite activity at the Sanctuary was people watching. We overheard two aged American hippies deep in conversation about the 100,000 aliens who lived amongst us – including the Clintons. One claimed he had the ability to recognise extraterrestrial interlopers when he sees them, giving them a knowing look as if to say “I’m watching you buddy”. We met another, highly professional couple who swore blind that ‘micro dabbing’ a tiny amount of LSD every day made them super creative, and another held that pheromones could be used to identify ‘friend’ or ‘foe’ – they based their decision to like you or not based on your body odour. They also held the belief that drinking cow’s milk was a government conspiracy to suppress our natural abilities to do this and thus alter the natural fabric of human society. Another lady’s mask of ‘peace and love’ slipped while intently working on her laptop: she was greeted by a friendly wave from another lady across the bar. She barked ‘what do you want, I said hello to you this morning’ only for the waver to sheepishly retort that she was leaving the island and simply wanted to say goodbye. Mrs ‘Peace and Love’ retorted ‘well I’m busy’ and returned to her computer without any contrition in her voice. The eclecticism of The Sanctuary was epitomised in the Friday night party at Eden, where we weren’t sure if we had missed the memo for fancy dress – but it turns out that rainbow trousers and feathers are just standard attire in these parts.
Scattered around the Sanctuary are coconuts on which somebody has written messages. One says “talk less shit”, another “the witches will win”, and finally, our favourite: “too many freaks, not enough circuses.” Was this a wry commentary on some of the clientele? Did that include us?
The Sanctuary is unique in offering an authentic alternative to what modern Thailand has become. It allows you release your inner hippy while still having the creature comforts of western life. There is talk of a paved road being built, which we really hope that doesn’t happen because it’s seclusion is what makes it special. It’s A stunning place to indulge your spiritual side and taste buds by day and go a little crazy in the jungle of an evening. Thanks for inviting us Suzanne and Morwena!
Returning to Bangkok, we rented a fantastic Airbnb apartment with incredible views over the city, tennis courts and huge swimming pool (£70 a night between three). Our final night was spent overlooking the skyline from the 67th floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel sipping cocktails with Lucas and Leo, more friends from London flying through on route to Cambodia. Two weeks in Thailand had been a truly fantastic ‘holiday within a holiday’ – thanks to Roberto for drinking, playing cards and eating excessive quantities of spring rolls with us. Next, it was rucksacks back on and ready for Vietnam.
Ant and Will's World Tour 
Oh we are sure you’d skip the full moon party!
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